Cars Specification

Factory amp interface
1. Locate the amplifier signal wires. In European vehicles, these wires are often labeled on the factory radio itself. For most domestic vehicles, these wires are the same wires that feed the speakers on models that are not equipped with a factory amplifier. In addition to signal wires, you must locate the amp turn-on wire. This is the wire that tells the amp to turn on when the stereo is on.
2. Cut the ends off a set of RCA cables. Plug the RCA cables into the RCA pre-outs on the back of the stereo to be installed. Strip back about 1 inch of insulation from each cable and separate the center conductor from the ground shield.
3. Connect the RCA plugged into the front left RCA output to the front left signal wires to the amplifier. Connect the center conductor to the positive wire, and the shield conductor to the negative wire. Repeat this for the front right, rear left, and rear right signal wires.
4. Solder all connections, and seal with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Connect the remote turn-on wire from the CD player to the turn-on wire for the amplifier. Usually, the CD players remote turn-on wire is blue with a white stripe.
5. Turn on the CD player and listen. If connected properly, you will hear music playing through all four speakers and subwoofer (if equipped). Start the car and turn the volume all the way down to check for noise. With the volume set to zero, no sound should be heard. If a high-pitched whine is heard, and the frequency increases when you press the gas, check for a proper ground connection on the CD player and the signal wires.

1. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the BMW. Remove the splash guard under the engine. This is held on with screws and plastic plugs that are removed by hand. Turn on the ignition, set the heater to 91 degrees and set the fan to the low speed. This will get the coolant out of the heater core.
2. Locate the radiator fill cap in the engine bay and loosen the bleeder screw with a screwdriver. Make sure you let the car cool down enough if it has been driven recently.
3. Locate and remove the two blue radiator screws located directly beneath where the radiator fill cap is located. Place a container under the drain plugs and drain them one at a time. Reinstall the radiator drain screws. Remove the 13-millimeter engine block drain plug, located on the passenger’s side of the engine block near the front axle, and drain the coolant into the container. Place a new washer on the drain bolt and put it back in the block, tightening it to 18 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
4. Remove the intake ducting by carefully prying up the three plastic rivets that hold it to the top of the radiator. Remove the neck of the air box by pressing the two vertical sides of the ducting together and pulling it off.
5. Remove the wires that go to the radiator fan and the T25 Torx screw that holds the fan on. Remove the plastic rivet on the driver’s side with a screwdriver. Remove the fan by pulling it straight up and out.
6. Remove the wire that goes to the thermostat. Use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the upper right part of the thermostat. Use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts on the top and bottom of the thermostat.
7. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine block. Remove the thermostat. Clean the surface where the thermostat gasket is installed so there is no gasket material remaining.
8. Install the new thermostat with the 13-millimeter bolt and the three 10-millimeter bolts. Use a new gasket when you reinstall the thermostat. Tighten the bolts to 7 lb/ft. Reinstall the radiator hoses. Reinstall the fan and the intake ducting. Top up the system with coolant.

Remove and Replace Rear Shock Absorbers
1. Place the jack under one side of the car and lift it until the rear wheel is clear of the ground. Place one jack stand under the frame near the jack and carefully lower the car onto it. Pull the jack out from under the side of the car.
2. Place the wheel chocks under the opposite front wheel, in front and behind. Open the trunk.
3. Place the jack under the rear axle member and lift, taking up some of the extension of the rear shock absorber.
4. Pull the interior carpet down in the front corners, exposing the bolts on the tops of the shock absorbers. Remove the nuts on the top of the shock absorbers by turning them counterclockwise, with the 13 mm or 14 mm socket.
5. Verify the correct size of the bolt and nut on the bottom of the shock absorber (17 mm and 19 mm) and remove them, turning the counterclockwise. Lower the rear axle member carefully, until the upper portion of the shock absorber clears the mounting hole. Lift the shock out of the lower bracket.
6. Insert the bottom of the shock into the bottom shock mount. Insert the bolt and start the nut on the bottom bracket. Prior to inserting the upper portion of the shock, you will need to place the bushing and retainer over the shock rod.
7. Lift the rear axle member as you guide the shock rod into the upper mounting hole. Place the bushing and retainer over the shock rod and start the retention nut. Tighten the lower mounting bolts to approximately 40 to 50 foot-pounds of torque.
8. Remove the jack from the back of the car and push it under the side. Lift the car off the jack stand, remove it and lower the car to the ground.
9. Tighten the upper shock nut to 40 to 50 foot-pounds. If present, run the lock nut down and torque it to 40 to 50 foot-pounds also.
10. Repeat this process on the other side. Replace the trunk interior carpet when the job is complete.
Remove and Replace Front MacPherson Struts
11. Place the wheel chocks in front and behind one of the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug nuts with the lug wrench until they are finger tight. Place the jack under the front frame cross-member and lift the front end up until the front wheels clear the ground. Pull the jack out. Open the hood.
12. Place the jack stands under the front cross-member to each side of the jack pad and carefully lower the car onto them. Remove the lug nuts and front wheels and set the wheels aside.
13. Verify the size of the three or four bolts on the strut cap and remove them by turning them counterclockwise. Do this on both driver and passenger sides.
14. Verify the proper size wrench and socket for the two bottom strut bolts and remove them by turning them counterclockwise.
15. Grasp the strut firmly and pull down and push inward to release it from the shock tower and bottom clamp. Set the strut aside.
16. Repeat the preceding process on the other side.
17. Place the strut spring clamp on the uppermost and lowermost spring coils. Using the correct size wrench, collapse the spring as much as you can.
18. Verify the size of the upper strut nut and remove it by turning it counterclockwise. You may need to use the 13 mm wrench to hold the strut rod from turning
19. Lift the strut cap off the strut coil assembly and pull the strut out of the coil.
20. Insert the new strut through the coil and place the strut cap over the top. Secure the cap to the strut using the provided upper strut nut. Again, you may need to use the 13 mm wrench to provide enough torque to properly secure the strut cap to the strut.
21. Place the strut under the fender and lift it into place, lining up the holes on the strut tower with the studs on the strut cap. Place the three or four nuts that hold the strut cap to the tower on the strut cap studs and run them down clockwise to finger tight. You will need to hold the strut in place until the nuts are installed.
22. Twist the strut to line it up with the lower mount on the steering knuckle and insert the two bolts into their holes. If one of the large washers has the hole off-center, be sure to replace it exactly as it came out, as this adjusts the alignment camber angle.
23. Torque the bottom strut nut to 50 to 60 foot-pounds of torque. Torque the strut tower nuts to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the wheel. Install the lug nuts finger tight.
24. Repeat the preceding process on the other side. Place the jack under the front cross-member and lift the car off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle until the wheels make contact with the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 75 to 80 foot-pounds.