Cars Specification

Factory amp interface
1. Locate the amplifier signal wires. In European vehicles, these wires are often labeled on the factory radio itself. For most domestic vehicles, these wires are the same wires that feed the speakers on models that are not equipped with a factory amplifier. In addition to signal wires, you must locate the amp turn-on wire. This is the wire that tells the amp to turn on when the stereo is on.
2. Cut the ends off a set of RCA cables. Plug the RCA cables into the RCA pre-outs on the back of the stereo to be installed. Strip back about 1 inch of insulation from each cable and separate the center conductor from the ground shield.
3. Connect the RCA plugged into the front left RCA output to the front left signal wires to the amplifier. Connect the center conductor to the positive wire, and the shield conductor to the negative wire. Repeat this for the front right, rear left, and rear right signal wires.
4. Solder all connections, and seal with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Connect the remote turn-on wire from the CD player to the turn-on wire for the amplifier. Usually, the CD players remote turn-on wire is blue with a white stripe.
5. Turn on the CD player and listen. If connected properly, you will hear music playing through all four speakers and subwoofer (if equipped). Start the car and turn the volume all the way down to check for noise. With the volume set to zero, no sound should be heard. If a high-pitched whine is heard, and the frequency increases when you press the gas, check for a proper ground connection on the CD player and the signal wires.

1. Select parts that are sized properly for your car. Higher-quality exhaust systems take advantage of mandrel-bent pipes and mimic the look of the original car parts. Your local auto shop may build custom dual exhaust systems, but they are probably created with generic parts and fit poorly.
2. Pick a kit that includes all clamps, hangers and hardware, so you will not be searching for pieces to complete the installation.
3. Stop blowing gaskets by using a steel donut gasket when connecting the manifold. The steel resists heat better than other gaskets, while sealing the pipe and manifold together.
4. Position exhaust pipes to clear both the floorpan and the driveshaft by at least 1 inch. When finalizing the setting, remember that the shaft moves up and down with rear axle, and the pipes must clear it completely.
5. Use factory muffler positioning to make most exhaust systems a simple bolt-on installation. If you place your muffler differently, the pipes may need to be bent accordingly. Hanging mufflers higher may require you to drill into the floorpan to hang them.
6. Mount tailpipe hangers near the frame rail to prevent the pipes from noticeably rattling. Brackets should face the front of the car in most cases. Your exhaust kit should come with the proper hangers, but you may have to have a few self-tapping bolts on hand.
7. Check the clearance before completely tightening all bolts. Things move as you attach other parts, so make sure there is still a 1-inch clearance. Rotate the rear axle to make sure the driveshaft doesnt rub against the muffler.

Removing the Existing Tank
1. Let the engine and radiator cool down completely. Open the hood and support it in a raised position.
2. Pull the electrical wiring harness from the back side of the air filter housing on top of the engine. Unsnap the two connectors on the intake hose on the back side of the air box. Remove the two retaining bolts on the driver’s side of the housing with a socket and ratchet. Lift the housing up and remove it from the engine bay.
3. Remove the retaining screws on the engine cover on the underside of the car with a Phillips screwdriver. Rotate the cover downwards so that you can access the underside of the radiator and expansion tank.
4. Remove the pressurized cap from the expansion tank slowly and place it aside. Place a clean drain pan under the driver’s side of the radiator. Remove the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator with a wrench. Replace and tighten the plug after all the coolant has drained from the radiator.
5. Unplug the wiring connector from the coolant sensor on the bottom of the expansion tank. Rotate the sensor counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the bottom of the tank. Place the sensor aside.
6. Pull straight out on the lever of the locking clip on the bottom of the tank until it stops. Pull straight up on the levers of the two locking clips on the coolant hoses on top of the expansion tank in the same manner. Pull the hoses toward the back of the car to detach them from the tank.
7. Pull the lever on the locking clip on the heater hose fitting -- located midway between the top and bottom of the tank -- toward the back of the car until it stops. Pull the heater hose straight off the tank.
8. Pull the tank straight upward until the tab clears the mounting plate on the bottom. Tilt the top of the tank toward the back of the car slightly, then pull it straight out of the engine bay.
Expansion Tank Installation
9. Insert the tab in the bottom of the expansion tank into the slot in the mounting plate near the bottom of the radiator. Tilt the top of the tank towards the radiator. Push the heater hose onto its fitting on the tank and push the locking clip inward.
10. Push in on the locking clip on the bottom of the tank. Insert the coolant temperature sensor into the hole in the bottom of the tank and twist it in a clockwise direction. Push the wiring connector into the terminal on the sensor.
11. Push the two coolant hoses onto the fittings on the top of the tank. Push the locking clips on the hoses downward.
12. Rotate the engine cover upwards and tighten the Phillips screws. Position the air filter housing back into the engine bay. Replace and tighten the two retaining screws. Push the intake hose onto the back of the housing and snap the two connectors together. Push the wiring connector on the plug on the back of the housing until it snaps into place.
13. Place a funnel into the opening of the coolant expansion tank. Loosen and remove the plastic bleed screw on the top of the expansion tank with a wrench. Place an additional drain pan under the expansion tank. Pour the coolant that was drained from the radiator into the funnel slowly until coolant with no air bubbles comes from the bleed screw opening. Tighten the bleed screw, remove the funnel and replace the pressurized cap on the tank.

1. Remove the shift knob from your E30, by firmly grasping it and pulling upward with force.
2. Remove the boot around the shift knob by unclipping it. If there is foam insulation under the shift boot, remove that, as well.
3. Raise the E30 front end with the floor jack, and position it on the two jack stands.
4. Go to the underside of your E30, and remove the securing clip at the end of the gear selector rod pin. This can be pried off, using a flat-head screwdriver.
5. Insert the heads of both screwdrivers into the opposite slots of the select arm bearing ring. Turn the ring one-quarter rotation, in a counterclockwise direction, to unlock it.
6. Push the bearing through the shift lever housing. Go to your E30 interior, and remove the shift lever by sliding it up and out.
7. Use the lithium grease to lubricate the inner portion of the gear selector arm housing.
8. Place the new short shift lever into the gear selector arm housing.
9. Lubricate the selector rod pin with the lithium grease, and insert the selector rod pin into the shifter bushings.
10. Reinstall the rod pin securing clip that was removed in Step 4.
11. Lower your E30, and remove the jack stands.
12. Go to your E30 interior, and reinstall the foam insulation (if applicable), shift boot and shift knob. The shift knob can be reinstalled by sliding it over the metal gear selector rod and pushing down, until it clicks into place.
13. The transmission must enter each gear by mimicking gear changes while the car is stationary and turned off.

1. Select parts that are sized properly for your car. Higher-quality exhaust systems take advantage of mandrel-bent pipes and mimic the look of the original car parts. Your local auto shop may build custom dual exhaust systems, but they are probably created with generic parts and fit poorly.
2. Pick a kit that includes all clamps, hangers and hardware, so you will not be searching for pieces to complete the installation.
3. Stop blowing gaskets by using a steel donut gasket when connecting the manifold. The steel resists heat better than other gaskets, while sealing the pipe and manifold together.
4. Position exhaust pipes to clear both the floorpan and the driveshaft by at least 1 inch. When finalizing the setting, remember that the shaft moves up and down with rear axle, and the pipes must clear it completely.
5. Use factory muffler positioning to make most exhaust systems a simple bolt-on installation. If you place your muffler differently, the pipes may need to be bent accordingly. Hanging mufflers higher may require you to drill into the floorpan to hang them.
6. Mount tailpipe hangers near the frame rail to prevent the pipes from noticeably rattling. Brackets should face the front of the car in most cases. Your exhaust kit should come with the proper hangers, but you may have to have a few self-tapping bolts on hand.
7. Check the clearance before completely tightening all bolts. Things move as you attach other parts, so make sure there is still a 1-inch clearance. Rotate the rear axle to make sure the driveshaft doesnt rub against the muffler.