Cars Specification

1. Open the hood of your Mercedes and locate the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, mostly found between the air cleaner box and the air intake pipe of more modernized engines.
2. Unfasten all of the clamps that hold the air filter box to the intake hose and disconnect completely. Remove the air filter inside and thoroughly clean this area of any dirt that may have built-up over the extensive use of your Mercedes. This step is not imperative to removing and replacing the MAF sensor, but it will certainly help improve the functionality of the new sensor once installed. Replace the air filter if necessary, but leave the air box disconnected at this time.
3. Use the necessary socket to remove the bolt that holds the clamp of the air intake pipe. Remove this piece to free the intake pipe.
4. Pinch both sides of the MAF sensor and wiggle free until you have completely removed this part from the engine. Be patient, as this may take a few moments of your time to loosen.
5. Compare the old MAF sensor that you just removed with its replacement counterpart. Make sure both sensors match identically and replace the new MAF sensor exactly as the new one was removed. It should slide on very easily, with little wiggling to set into place.
6. Reconnect all of the parts that were removed to access the MAF sensor and clean the air filter box. Make sure all bolts are tightened properly to hold the intended clamps together, ensuring that the air intake tube and air filter box both are set exactly as they were before removal and installation of the MAF sensor.

1. Remove the spark plugs with a socket wrench, and disconnect the valve covers.
2. Clamp the timing chain to the camshaft gear. Plug the opening in the cover for the timing chain with shop rags. Attach a chain-breaker to the master link on the timing chain. Separate the master link by using the chain-breaker. Release the clamp from the camshaft gear, and remove the shop rags from the hole in the timing chain cover.
3. Attach the master link on the new timing chain to the master link on the old timing chain. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench as you pull the old timing chain through the camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the old timing chain, and stop turning when the master link on the old chain is in the 12 oclock position on the camshaft sprocket.
4. Disconnect the master link on the old timing chain from the master link on the new timing chain, and remove the old timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Connect the free end of the master link on the new timing chain with the other free end of the timing chain. Make this connection from the rear of the camshaft sprocket, so that you can see the lock washers on the timing chain.
5. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the crankcase. This will close the master link on the new timing chain. Turn the crankshaft at least one full turn clockwise to ensure the new timing chain is properly seated.

1. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Loosen the clamp nut with a wrench and pull the cable off.
2. Lift one corner of the BMW up with a jack. Place a jack stand under the BMW and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.
3. Remove the lug nuts from the tire with a lug nut wrench. Pull the tire off.
4. Remove the black box behind the wheel column. Loosen the mounting bolts with a socket wrench and pull the box out.
5. Pull the tabs on either side of the speed sensor. Pull it out and disconnect the wiring harness underneath it.
6. Connect the wiring harness to the new BMW speed sensor and put it in place of the old speed sensor in the black box.
7. Reattach the black box with the socket wrench. Put the tire back on the BMW and secure it in place with the lug nut wrench. Use the jack to lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat for all tires that need to have the speed sensor replaced.

1. Hold down the Unlock button on your keyless entry fob for several seconds to make your windows roll down.
2. Remove your finger from the Unlock button when your windows are down.
3. Press the Lock button for several seconds to put up your windows. This is the standard process for most vehicles. If it doesnt work, check your owners manual for the correct directions.

1. Purchase a twist-type manual boost controller. These in-line check valves have a spring mechanism inside which, when you twist the MBC (manual boost controller) body together, receives more pre-load to keep the valve shut longer.
2. Locate the waste gate diaphragm on the base of the turbocharger. It will look like a small flying saucer with an armature coming out of one end and a rubber vacuum line (boost sensor line) coming out of the top. Follow it back to the intake manifold or pressure tube.
3. Cut a 2-inch section from the boost sensor line. Where you make the cut isnt important; just cut where youll have easy access for later adjustment.
4. Screw the body of your MBC counter-clockwise until the ends are hanging together by just two threads. This will release the pre-load on your spring to prevent an overboost the first time you fire the engine.
5. Slip a hose clamp over the turbo side of your sensor line and plug the MBC into the line. Some MBCs will have an arrow on the exterior to indicate the turbo side; on others youll find boost or turbo printed.
6. Slip another hose clamp over the intake side of the line, and plug the line into the MBC. Tighten the hose on the turbo side hose clamp completely, but do not completely tighten the intake side.
7. Start the car and slowly raise the rpm while closely monitoring the boost gauge. At this point, it should read no higher than it did stock.
8. Hold the rpm at about 4,000 rpm while an assistant slowly screws the body of the MBC together. Keep a close eye on your boost gauge.
9. Once you have the boost set at your desired level, have your assistant tighten down the intake-side hose clamp and MBC lock nut, if so equipped.

1. Raise your BMW with the floor jack and place it on jack stands. You can either raise one side of it or raise it at all four corners. Either way, make sure it is raised high enough to allow you to comfortably reach the driveshaft. Also, make sure that the car is safely supported since you will be working underneath. You can slide a couple of wheels and tires under as well for added safety.
2. Spray penetrating oil on all the bolts that are going to be removed and let the oil soak in (the longer the better). Disconnect any sensors that go from the gearbox to the driveshaft. Not all models will have sensors, but some newer models like the 750 have sensors that must be disconnected. Note where the sensors go for later reinstallation.
3. Unbolt the exhaust hangers from the exhaust brackets. Disconnect the manifold bolts so that the exhaust can be dropped out of the way. (Depending on the model, you may be able to just loosen the manifold bolts a little to allow the exhaust to drop down enough.) Support the exhaust system with something (jack stands, block of wood, etc.) if you are not removing it entirely.
4. Remove the heat shield located between the exhaust system and the underside of the car (attached with a variety of bolts, depending on the model). Set the shield aside.
5. Remove the transmission crossmember, if needed, in order to access the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission. Support the transmission with something during this procedure.
6. Remove the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission and the bolts that hold it to the differential. Remove the bolts that hold the center support bearing in place. Pull the driveshaft out from under the car.
7. Mark the two halves of the driveshaft where they meet so that when they are put back together they are properly oriented.
8. Loosen the large nut behind the U-joint near the center bearing a little, pull the driveshaft apart, then loosen the nut again, repeating until the driveshaft is separated.
9. Pull the center support bearing off with a gear puller. Note the orientation of the bearing so that the new one is properly installed.
10. Install the new bearing by tapping it onto the driveshaft with a socket or similar tool that can fit over the splined part of the driveshaft. Tap the bearing on until the edge of the input shaft is just visible.
11. Reinstall the front shaft section, ensuring that the markings are properly lined up. Reinstall the driveshaft at both ends of the car in the reverse of removal. When you reinstall the driveshaft, preload the center bearing 4 to 6 mm toward the front of the car. Center the driveshaft in the transmission tunnel and tighten the bolts for the center bearing.
12. Reinstall the transmission crossmember if it was removed. Reinstall the exhaust system. Lower the car to the ground.

1. Lift the front of the Mercedes 190e with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front axle on both sides of the car, then lower the vehicle to rest on the jack stands.
2. Locate where the exhaust pipe attaches to the engine and detach the pipe from the motor, using a socket wrench to unfasten the bolts.
3. Remove the air filter canister by undoing the bolt on the top with a socket wrench and taking the canister off the top of the engine.
4. Disconnect the linkage to the carburetor with a pair of pliers and move the linkage out of the way.
5. Unfasten the motor mounts of the engine, using a socket wrench to remove the bolts, then lift the engine up with a floor jack about 4 inches.
6. Place two wood blocks between the engine and the vehicle frame to hold the engine in place then lower the floor jack away from the engine.
7. Locate the oil pan drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan and place a drip pan underneath the drain plug.
8. Loosen the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the oil to drain into the pan until it is completely empty.
9. Move the drain pan out of the way and unfasten the bolts on the oil pan with a socket wrench.
10. Pry the oil pan from the engine block with a screwdriver, moving the oil pan out from under the engine then use a putty knife to scrape off any excess gasket material from under the engine.
11. Place the new oil pan gasket on the lip of the new oil pan and slide the pan into position, attaching it with bolts to the bottom of the engine.
12. Lift the engine up with the floor jack, remove the wood blocks then lower the engine back into position over the engine mounts.
13. Secure the engine to the engine mounts, using a socket wrench to tighten the nuts then reattach the carburetor linkage.
14. Secure the air filter canister back into place and reattach the exhaust pipe to the engine.
15. Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and remove the stands, lowering the car back onto the ground.
16. Locate the oil cap on the top of the intake manifold and take the cap off.
17. Fill the engine with five quarts of oil then place the cap back on the intake manifold.

Factory amp interface
1. Locate the amplifier signal wires. In European vehicles, these wires are often labeled on the factory radio itself. For most domestic vehicles, these wires are the same wires that feed the speakers on models that are not equipped with a factory amplifier. In addition to signal wires, you must locate the amp turn-on wire. This is the wire that tells the amp to turn on when the stereo is on.
2. Cut the ends off a set of RCA cables. Plug the RCA cables into the RCA pre-outs on the back of the stereo to be installed. Strip back about 1 inch of insulation from each cable and separate the center conductor from the ground shield.
3. Connect the RCA plugged into the front left RCA output to the front left signal wires to the amplifier. Connect the center conductor to the positive wire, and the shield conductor to the negative wire. Repeat this for the front right, rear left, and rear right signal wires.
4. Solder all connections, and seal with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Connect the remote turn-on wire from the CD player to the turn-on wire for the amplifier. Usually, the CD players remote turn-on wire is blue with a white stripe.
5. Turn on the CD player and listen. If connected properly, you will hear music playing through all four speakers and subwoofer (if equipped). Start the car and turn the volume all the way down to check for noise. With the volume set to zero, no sound should be heard. If a high-pitched whine is heard, and the frequency increases when you press the gas, check for a proper ground connection on the CD player and the signal wires.

Draining the System
1. Park the vehicle and allow it to cool or wait long enough so that you can place your hand on the radiator for 10 seconds without discomfort. Remove the cap from the coolant overflow tank, then loosen the vent plug on the tank.
2. Unbolt the underbody paneling under the radiator to access the drain plug on the radiator and engine. Place a catch pan under the radiator, then turn the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator counterclockwise. Be ready for a rush of possibly warm fluid, and dont get any in your eyes. Wait for the coolant flow to stop, then pour the contents of the catch pan into a five-gallon bucket with a lid.
3. Repeat this procedure with the drain plug on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank; it should be readily visible and accessible from under the car. Finally, locate the coolant drain plug on the engine block. Youll find it just under the exhaust manifolds, near the center of the engine. Drain the coolant and dump it into the bucket. Reinstall all the drain plugs, and tighten each to 8 to 10 foot-pounds.
Refilling the System
4. Prepare a 50/50 mix of purified drinking water and BMW coolant Part No. 82 14 1 467 704, or just buy pre-mixed antifreeze approved for use in this application. Set the heater controls to maximum and set the heater fan to the lowest speed; this will engage the auxiliary heater pump, and flush the heater core of any remaining fluid.
5. Start the engine, and begin slowly adding water/coolant mixture to the coolant overflow tank. Make sure the vent valves remain open, or youll end up with air trapped in the system. Continue slowly filling the system with coolant until the coolant backs up into the overflow tank and stays at the "Cold Fill" line.
6. Close the coolant vent plugs, check for leaks and replace the cap on the overflow tank. Check the coolant level after driving about 50 miles; there may have been a bit of air trapped in the system, and it will gradually "burp" out as the system pressurizes. Add coolant as necessary to reach the "Cold Fill" line on the overflow tank.

1. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the BMW. Remove the splash guard under the engine. This is held on with screws and plastic plugs that are removed by hand. Turn on the ignition, set the heater to 91 degrees and set the fan to the low speed. This will get the coolant out of the heater core.
2. Locate the radiator fill cap in the engine bay and loosen the bleeder screw with a screwdriver. Make sure you let the car cool down enough if it has been driven recently.
3. Locate and remove the two blue radiator screws located directly beneath where the radiator fill cap is located. Place a container under the drain plugs and drain them one at a time. Reinstall the radiator drain screws. Remove the 13-millimeter engine block drain plug, located on the passenger’s side of the engine block near the front axle, and drain the coolant into the container. Place a new washer on the drain bolt and put it back in the block, tightening it to 18 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
4. Remove the intake ducting by carefully prying up the three plastic rivets that hold it to the top of the radiator. Remove the neck of the air box by pressing the two vertical sides of the ducting together and pulling it off.
5. Remove the wires that go to the radiator fan and the T25 Torx screw that holds the fan on. Remove the plastic rivet on the driver’s side with a screwdriver. Remove the fan by pulling it straight up and out.
6. Remove the wire that goes to the thermostat. Use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the upper right part of the thermostat. Use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts on the top and bottom of the thermostat.
7. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine block. Remove the thermostat. Clean the surface where the thermostat gasket is installed so there is no gasket material remaining.
8. Install the new thermostat with the 13-millimeter bolt and the three 10-millimeter bolts. Use a new gasket when you reinstall the thermostat. Tighten the bolts to 7 lb/ft. Reinstall the radiator hoses. Reinstall the fan and the intake ducting. Top up the system with coolant.

1. Remove the key from the ignition. Open the trunk of the X5.
2. Lift up the carpet lining above the spare tire. Remove the four retaining nuts around the center of the spare tire with a 10-mm socket attached to a ratchet.
3. Lift the spare tire out of the trunk. Remove the bolts on each end of the crossbar over the battery with a 13-mm socket and ratchet. Lift the crossbar out of the trunk. Loosen the negative battery cable with a 10-mm socket and ratchet. Remove the cable from the battery. Repeat the process on the positive cable.
4. Lift the battery out of the trunk. Insert the new battery in the same alignment as the old one. Attach the positive battery cable and tighten it with the 10-mm socket and ratchet. Repeat the process with the negative cable. Replace the crossbar and secure the bolts with a 13-mm socket and ratchet.
5. Replace the spare tire. Secure the retaining nuts with a 10-mm socket and ratchet set. Replace the carpet over the spare tire area and close the trunk.

1. Inspect the paintwork for damage. Scratches, dents and corrosion can all be indicative of greater damage elsewhere. Any scratch on the paint can be expensive, because Mercedes often used limited run paints (restricted to certain cars and years of manufacture). Paint needs to be repaired soon, as it can lead to early rust. Any dents in the body panel could mean that the Mercedes was in an accident and could have frame damage underneath. If there is corrosion in the panel then it is guaranteed that there is rust elsewhere, especially on the undercarriage.
2. Open the hood and inspect the engine. There should be no debris in the engine bay or radiator. If your Mercedes is a carbureted model, then inspect the barrel intakes for damage to the valves. Damaged carburetor valves can lead to irregular air-fuel mixes that can damage your piston or sleeves. If your engine is fuel injected, then inspect the fuel lines for leaks (pay special attention to the rubber hoses, as they have a tendency to become brittle with age). Inspect the power lines on the hybrid model for any damage (do not touch damaged ones). Call a Mercedes dealership to repair a hybrid model.
3. Turn the car on and listen to it idle. The hybrid Mercedes should not run the engine while the car is sitting still, only when under power. Non-hybrids should idle around 2000 rpm (if it idles higher than this, there may be a problem with the fuel-air mix). Watch the engine temperature. Even on a hot day, the engine should remain cool in idle.
4. Drive the Mercedes forward and listen for the engine. AMG models should roar when the throttle is pushed in, even at sedate speeds. Non-AMG models should be whisper quiet, even at highway speeds (if you hear the engine, then some of the noise isolation material has fallen off). Mercedes prides itself on providing quiet interiors on their regular cars. The car should easily absorb any bumps in the road. If the car rocks a lot then the shocks may be shot.

1. Remove the bolts that secure the seat base to the floor pan with a socket and ratchet. The bolts are between the center cut-out in the seat where the seat belt fasteners come out of the center of the seat. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet.
2. Grab the front of the seat and work your fingers between the floor pan and the bottom of the seat. Pull up to force the clamps out of the floor pan and pull the seat forward to separate it from the seat back.
3. Push the seat belt fasteners from between the two seat panels and remove the lower seat from the Mercedes.
4. Grab the bottom of the seat back where the seat was joined with the seat base. Pull out on the bottom of the seat to remove the clips from the trunk frame. Keep pulling until the entire seat is free from the trunk frame and remove the seat back from the Mercedes.

1. Turn on the car so the engine is running.
2. Locate the R or Reset button to the left of your instrument panel. Press the reset button twice. In the display screen in your instrument panel, you should see the amount of time left before your next oil change.
3. Turn off the car.
4. Hold the reset button down and simultaneously turn on the engine again. Hold the button down until the display screen beeps. You will see the FSS light reset.

1. Unlock the doors of the Audi. If the doors are locked, the tank flap will not open.
2. Flip open the gas tank flap.
3. Turn the circular tank cap counterclockwise. The cap is located underneath the tank flap.
4. Remove the tank cap from the Audi.
5. Hook the tank cap at the top of the flap to prevent the cap from getting misplaced.
6. Pump fuel into the gas tank of the Audi.

1. Fill the tank with high-test 91+ octane gasoline when it is almost empty. This will help the engine run well, and clean out any carbon buildup.
2. Run the vehicle to half a tank, then fill with 87-octane fuel. This will give you mid-grade fuel of 89. The BMW engine is rated for 91-octane fuel.
3. Run the car till it needs fuel again and fill with 89-octane. At the next fuel stop, repeat the process starting with high-test fuel. This cycle will allow you to run regular fuel in the BMW 325.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
2. Press the Odo/Trip button until the odometer is put into ODO mode.
3. Turn off the ignition.
4. Press and hold the Odo/Trip button. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Hold the Odo/Trip button for two seconds. Release the Odo/Trip button and then immediately press it again, release it, press it, release it and then press it and hold it. Hold the button until the leveling information is displayed on the odometer, about five seconds.
5. Release the Odo/Trip button.
6. Press and hold the Odo/Trip button until the odometer display reads 1, which indicates the reset process has begun.
7. Release the Odo/Trip button when the reset process is complete, which is indicated when the odometer display returns to normal.
8. Turn off the ignition.

1. Allow the 1.8T engine to cool for several hours so that you dont risk burning yourself. Then lift up the front end, using the jack, and put the car on a pair of jack stands. Put the drain pan underneath the front of the radiator and open the petcock on the radiator. Let all of the coolant empty into the drain pan.
2. Unbolt the thermostat housing from the bottom of the engine using a 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and socket. Pull the housing off of the engine, then make a mental note of the orientation of the thermostat. Pull the thermostat out of the housing and discard it.
3. Pull the o-ring out of the housing and install the replacement. Then install the replacement thermostat in the housing in the same orientation as the original. Bolt the housing back to the engine using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and socket.
4. Open the radiator cap. Fill the radiator with the 50-50 prediluted coolant. Lower the car off the stands using the jack. Start the car and let it run for 15 minutes with the heater set on high. Turn off the car and let it sit for an hour. Open the radiator cap and top off the radiator with the 50-50 prediluted coolant.

1. Open the hood and locate the belt tensioner for the air conditioner belt. The tensioner is mounted to the front of the engine block between the crankshaft and the a/c compressor. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.
2. Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt out from around the tensioner pulley, the a/c pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the belt from the engine well.
3. Locate the serpentine belt tensioner mounted to the front of the engine block on the lower left hand side of the alternator. Use the tensioner pulley bolt to loosen the tension from the belt.
4. Position a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar and a metric socket onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar in a counter-clockwise motion to loosen the tension from the belt. Pull the belt off the tensioner pulley and the remaining accessory pulleys. Remove the belt from the engine compartment.
5. Route the new serpentine belt around the accessories exactly as described by the belt routing diagram that is stamped to the top of the fan shroud. Once the belt is inside the accessory pulleys, turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again and slide the belt around the tensioner pulley. Release the breaker bar and remove it from the tensioner.
6. Route the new air conditioner belt around the a/c compressor pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket again. Slide the belt around the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar. Remove the breaker bar from the engine compartment. Look over both belts to ensure they are seated inside of each accessory pulley.
7. Crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds to completely seat the new belts inside the accessory pulleys. Turn the engine off.

Virgin white ie, the first of mortals referred Nissan Juke-R. The colorless lacquer production version looks a lot sweeter than the matte black drafts. But what is called love, the Juke-R # 001 is even stronger than previously described.

Because every V6 twin turbo for a Nissan GT-R and now Juke-R largely by hand in each block is screwed no completely identical to the other. The result is that the power of the 3.8 liter engine fluctuates between 475 and 500 hp. For t ease Nissan announced then that the peak power was 485 horsepower. Meanwhile, the GT-R model year 2013 to around 550 hp. And benefit from the production of copies of the Juke-R while the two drafts are based on older versions of "Godzilla".

Nissan Juke-R First

three counting
The half-million museum ripe Juke-R - because unfortunately, most wear their life - on paper good for 545 hp, but as I said, you never know. Measurements by Nissan that the cars driver in three seconds by the 100 can pop it. The top speed is set at 275 km / h. This is also considerably higher than the 257 km / h of the concepts.

slightly revised
Hard to see that the design of the Nissan Juke-R for production purposes something has changed. The lower part of the front spoiler and sills cum sideskirts are slightly different and also knows the diffuser at the rear a slightly different form.

How many copies of exactly the Nissan Juke-R will be built is not disclosed. According to the latest reports outside the factory to be that twenty.