Cars Specification

It is not surprising when you want to buy a car alarm system, all the manufacturers claim to have the best alarm system. This is normal course. As consumers, we must be smart to choose and do a little research to find an alarm system that best suits our car.

Finding the best car alarm system starts with understanding the type of car you have to determine a compatible car alarm system. If you have a car manufactured in 2000, maybe an alarm that is for cars made in 2010 to no longer compatible. The first place to look for information is through your cars manual. Noteworthy, too, many cars that have been installed from the factory default alarm.

If it turns out this innate alarm is mounted and you want to upgrade your car alarm systems, spoke with the mechanic would be very helpful to determine where the alarm system should be selected. Next, choose a car alarm systems will also be influenced by the fi tour of what kind of security you want to install. Some car owners may prefer to choose a car alarm with remote control while others are more inclined to keyless entry systems.

After deciding which type of car alarm category is about to be selected, the next step is to study the product description and reviews from consumers. Narrow your choices to a few brands or models can help you more easily compare the fi-fi tour provided tour or ask questions to the provider.

No alarms are suitable for all types of cars. The best alarm is appropriate to the type of car, preferences, and budget you have. Talking with colleagues to gain their experience of an alarm system will facilitate you in making decisions. Make sure the car alarm installed by a person who qualifi cation to ensure the optimization function.

1. Open the hood of your Mercedes and locate the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, mostly found between the air cleaner box and the air intake pipe of more modernized engines.
2. Unfasten all of the clamps that hold the air filter box to the intake hose and disconnect completely. Remove the air filter inside and thoroughly clean this area of any dirt that may have built-up over the extensive use of your Mercedes. This step is not imperative to removing and replacing the MAF sensor, but it will certainly help improve the functionality of the new sensor once installed. Replace the air filter if necessary, but leave the air box disconnected at this time.
3. Use the necessary socket to remove the bolt that holds the clamp of the air intake pipe. Remove this piece to free the intake pipe.
4. Pinch both sides of the MAF sensor and wiggle free until you have completely removed this part from the engine. Be patient, as this may take a few moments of your time to loosen.
5. Compare the old MAF sensor that you just removed with its replacement counterpart. Make sure both sensors match identically and replace the new MAF sensor exactly as the new one was removed. It should slide on very easily, with little wiggling to set into place.
6. Reconnect all of the parts that were removed to access the MAF sensor and clean the air filter box. Make sure all bolts are tightened properly to hold the intended clamps together, ensuring that the air intake tube and air filter box both are set exactly as they were before removal and installation of the MAF sensor.

1.
After jacking up the car and removing the wheels, start by unscrewing the top nut.
2.
For next step you will need 5/8 wrench.
3.
Unscrew and remove bolt
4.
Bolt removed
5.
Apply penetrating oil to the nut at the far end of the tie rod.
6.
Loosen the nut.
7.
Tap the body of the tie rod down to push the tie rod out of the joint.
8.
Compare the new tie rod with the old.
9.
Now unscrew the tie rod by turning it counter clockwise with your hands. You can possibly avoid an alignment by counting the number of turns it takes to loosen and applying it to the new tie rod installation.
10.
The old and the new.
11.
10mm allen head will be used for the next step.
12.
Using the allen head, adjust the tie rod to align with the entry hole.
13.
After tapping the tie rod into the hole, you will need to use the allen wrench to turn the tie rod joint so that cut piece of the tie rod aligns with the hole(details in next step)
14.
Closer look at the cut that needs to be aligned with the hole where the bolt in previous step enters.
15.
Screw in the top bolt. My tie rods came with a brand new ones.
16. All done. Your car may need an alignment depending on how accurately you were able to replace the old tie rod.

1. Level the vehicle properly by filling the gas tank completely, taking everything out of the trunk and seats that doesnt normally ride along in the car, and inflating all four tires to the psi indicated on the side walls of the tires. You should also have a person sitting in the drivers seat of the vehicle while you actually adjust the headlight bulbs, so recruit a friend to help you with the rest of the steps.
2. Look for an appropriate place to calibrate your headlights. The ideal setting will have a flat, level driving surface in front of a flat, vertical wall. You will need to park your E36 about 25 feet back from the wall, so make sure that theres enough room to back that far up.
3. Wait until its dark enough to see the headlights reflected on the wall, then drive to your selected spot. Pull all the way up to the vertical wall until your front bumper almost touches it, then put on the parking brake and straighten out the front wheels.
4. Get out of the car and bring the masking tape with you. Because of the contouring on the front end of the E36, the lenses of the headlights should only be a few inches away from the wall. Tear off two small squares of masking tape and place them on the wall directly in front of the center points on each of the headlight lenses. The center point of the headlight lenses will always be marked by some sort of symbol, but the specific size and shape of the symbol depends on what model year your E36 is and whether or not youve had aftermarket headlight assemblies installed.
5. Make sure your front tires are perfectly straight, then get back in the car and back straight up about 25 feet.
6. Put the parking brake on, get out of the car and use your tape measure to see if the front end of the car is 25 feet back from the wall. Based on your measurement, make any adjustments necessary until the car is almost exactly 25 feet away.
7. Put the parking brake back on, turn on the headlights and leave the engine running. If you found someone to sit in the drivers seat while you adjust the headlights, have them sit in the seat now.
8. Look at the headlight beams shine on the wall. You should be able to see the center point on the headlight lenses reflected in their beams. Ideally, you want each of these center points to shine right on those little squares of tape you put up earlier. If this is already the case, no adjustment is needed; otherwise, proceed to the next step.
9. Pull the hood release lever in front of the drivers seat, then open the hood all the way and prop it open. You will see two white plastic screws at the back of each headlight assembly. On each assembly, the screw closest to the outside of the car controls the horizontal axis of the bulb. The one closer to the center of the car controls the vertical axis of the bulb.
10. Adjust one headlight at a time by turning the screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Keep your eyes on the beams on the wall as you turn the screws so that you can precisely move the reflection of the center point of each beam right on top of the pieces of tape.

1. Locate the differential housing. It is the lump on the axle in between the two tires, known as the pumpkin. If your vehicle has a differential cover, it will have a fill hole.
2. Locate the fill hole. On some models, it will be a square nut head sticking about 1/2 inch out of the cover itself, and on other models it will be an allen-style nut, recessed inside the cover.
3. Remove this plug, either using a crescent wrench or allen key, whichever your application requires.
4. Put your finger in the hole and feel for fluid. If filled correctly, the fluid should be almost to the bottom of the fill hole when on level ground. If you have to reach very far in, add some more.
5. Reinstall fill plug, but dont over tighten. They are designed with a lot of threads so the fluid wont leak, so there is no need to muscle these on. Just make it nice and snug.

1. Remove the spark plugs with a socket wrench, and disconnect the valve covers.
2. Clamp the timing chain to the camshaft gear. Plug the opening in the cover for the timing chain with shop rags. Attach a chain-breaker to the master link on the timing chain. Separate the master link by using the chain-breaker. Release the clamp from the camshaft gear, and remove the shop rags from the hole in the timing chain cover.
3. Attach the master link on the new timing chain to the master link on the old timing chain. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench as you pull the old timing chain through the camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the old timing chain, and stop turning when the master link on the old chain is in the 12 oclock position on the camshaft sprocket.
4. Disconnect the master link on the old timing chain from the master link on the new timing chain, and remove the old timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Connect the free end of the master link on the new timing chain with the other free end of the timing chain. Make this connection from the rear of the camshaft sprocket, so that you can see the lock washers on the timing chain.
5. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the crankcase. This will close the master link on the new timing chain. Turn the crankshaft at least one full turn clockwise to ensure the new timing chain is properly seated.

1. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Loosen the clamp nut with a wrench and pull the cable off.
2. Lift one corner of the BMW up with a jack. Place a jack stand under the BMW and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.
3. Remove the lug nuts from the tire with a lug nut wrench. Pull the tire off.
4. Remove the black box behind the wheel column. Loosen the mounting bolts with a socket wrench and pull the box out.
5. Pull the tabs on either side of the speed sensor. Pull it out and disconnect the wiring harness underneath it.
6. Connect the wiring harness to the new BMW speed sensor and put it in place of the old speed sensor in the black box.
7. Reattach the black box with the socket wrench. Put the tire back on the BMW and secure it in place with the lug nut wrench. Use the jack to lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat for all tires that need to have the speed sensor replaced.

1. Purchase the appropriate replacement dipstick for your vehicle. You can acquire a factory replacement at your nearest dealer, or an aftermarket equivalent at any auto parts store.
2. Turn your engine off and open the hood. Put on your gloves, then remove the old dipstick from your engine. If the handle is broken, use a pair of pliers to carefully pull it out.
3. Insert the new dipstick into the dipstick funnel. Close the hood.

1. Pull the wiper arm away from the windshield until it locks in a vertical position.
2. Clear away any debris with a nylon-bristled brush. If this does not fix the problem, you may need to replace the motor or the wiper assembly. If the wiper arms are bent, replace the arms. If the blades are worn, replace them. If the wipers hesitate while on or the motor seems weak, replace the motor.
3. Press down on the release tab on the top of the wiper blade assembly and pull the wiper off of the wiper arm. Slide the new wiper blade into the wiper arm lock. Installation is the reverse of removal.
4. Replace the wiper arm. To do this, remove the nut at the base of the wiper arm with a socket wrench and pull out the wiper arm motor. Installation is the reverse of removal.
5. Replace the wiper motor. To do this, open the hood and unplug the wiper motor electrical leads (the wiper motor is on the firewall). Unbolt the wiper motor from the firewall and slide the old motor off of the firewall. Install the new motor. Installation is the reverse of removal.

1. Hold down the Unlock button on your keyless entry fob for several seconds to make your windows roll down.
2. Remove your finger from the Unlock button when your windows are down.
3. Press the Lock button for several seconds to put up your windows. This is the standard process for most vehicles. If it doesnt work, check your owners manual for the correct directions.

1. Remove the caliper mounting bolts from the mounting bracket with an Allen driver and ratchet. Pull the caliper free of the mounting bracket and fork/swing arm.
2. Remove the pad retaining bolt(s) with an Allen driver and ratchet. Slip the old pads out of the caliper. Remove the old caliper clips and discard them.
3. Install the new caliper clips into the caliper. Place the new pads into position in the caliper and install the pad retaining bolt(s). Torque the retaining bolt(s) to factory specifications with the torque wrench.
4. Slip the caliper back onto the rotor and to the mounting bracket. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque them to factory specifications with the torque wrench.

1. Purchase a twist-type manual boost controller. These in-line check valves have a spring mechanism inside which, when you twist the MBC (manual boost controller) body together, receives more pre-load to keep the valve shut longer.
2. Locate the waste gate diaphragm on the base of the turbocharger. It will look like a small flying saucer with an armature coming out of one end and a rubber vacuum line (boost sensor line) coming out of the top. Follow it back to the intake manifold or pressure tube.
3. Cut a 2-inch section from the boost sensor line. Where you make the cut isnt important; just cut where youll have easy access for later adjustment.
4. Screw the body of your MBC counter-clockwise until the ends are hanging together by just two threads. This will release the pre-load on your spring to prevent an overboost the first time you fire the engine.
5. Slip a hose clamp over the turbo side of your sensor line and plug the MBC into the line. Some MBCs will have an arrow on the exterior to indicate the turbo side; on others youll find boost or turbo printed.
6. Slip another hose clamp over the intake side of the line, and plug the line into the MBC. Tighten the hose on the turbo side hose clamp completely, but do not completely tighten the intake side.
7. Start the car and slowly raise the rpm while closely monitoring the boost gauge. At this point, it should read no higher than it did stock.
8. Hold the rpm at about 4,000 rpm while an assistant slowly screws the body of the MBC together. Keep a close eye on your boost gauge.
9. Once you have the boost set at your desired level, have your assistant tighten down the intake-side hose clamp and MBC lock nut, if so equipped.

1. Raise your BMW with the floor jack and place it on jack stands. You can either raise one side of it or raise it at all four corners. Either way, make sure it is raised high enough to allow you to comfortably reach the driveshaft. Also, make sure that the car is safely supported since you will be working underneath. You can slide a couple of wheels and tires under as well for added safety.
2. Spray penetrating oil on all the bolts that are going to be removed and let the oil soak in (the longer the better). Disconnect any sensors that go from the gearbox to the driveshaft. Not all models will have sensors, but some newer models like the 750 have sensors that must be disconnected. Note where the sensors go for later reinstallation.
3. Unbolt the exhaust hangers from the exhaust brackets. Disconnect the manifold bolts so that the exhaust can be dropped out of the way. (Depending on the model, you may be able to just loosen the manifold bolts a little to allow the exhaust to drop down enough.) Support the exhaust system with something (jack stands, block of wood, etc.) if you are not removing it entirely.
4. Remove the heat shield located between the exhaust system and the underside of the car (attached with a variety of bolts, depending on the model). Set the shield aside.
5. Remove the transmission crossmember, if needed, in order to access the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission. Support the transmission with something during this procedure.
6. Remove the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission and the bolts that hold it to the differential. Remove the bolts that hold the center support bearing in place. Pull the driveshaft out from under the car.
7. Mark the two halves of the driveshaft where they meet so that when they are put back together they are properly oriented.
8. Loosen the large nut behind the U-joint near the center bearing a little, pull the driveshaft apart, then loosen the nut again, repeating until the driveshaft is separated.
9. Pull the center support bearing off with a gear puller. Note the orientation of the bearing so that the new one is properly installed.
10. Install the new bearing by tapping it onto the driveshaft with a socket or similar tool that can fit over the splined part of the driveshaft. Tap the bearing on until the edge of the input shaft is just visible.
11. Reinstall the front shaft section, ensuring that the markings are properly lined up. Reinstall the driveshaft at both ends of the car in the reverse of removal. When you reinstall the driveshaft, preload the center bearing 4 to 6 mm toward the front of the car. Center the driveshaft in the transmission tunnel and tighten the bolts for the center bearing.
12. Reinstall the transmission crossmember if it was removed. Reinstall the exhaust system. Lower the car to the ground.

1. Lift the front of the Mercedes 190e with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front axle on both sides of the car, then lower the vehicle to rest on the jack stands.
2. Locate where the exhaust pipe attaches to the engine and detach the pipe from the motor, using a socket wrench to unfasten the bolts.
3. Remove the air filter canister by undoing the bolt on the top with a socket wrench and taking the canister off the top of the engine.
4. Disconnect the linkage to the carburetor with a pair of pliers and move the linkage out of the way.
5. Unfasten the motor mounts of the engine, using a socket wrench to remove the bolts, then lift the engine up with a floor jack about 4 inches.
6. Place two wood blocks between the engine and the vehicle frame to hold the engine in place then lower the floor jack away from the engine.
7. Locate the oil pan drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan and place a drip pan underneath the drain plug.
8. Loosen the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the oil to drain into the pan until it is completely empty.
9. Move the drain pan out of the way and unfasten the bolts on the oil pan with a socket wrench.
10. Pry the oil pan from the engine block with a screwdriver, moving the oil pan out from under the engine then use a putty knife to scrape off any excess gasket material from under the engine.
11. Place the new oil pan gasket on the lip of the new oil pan and slide the pan into position, attaching it with bolts to the bottom of the engine.
12. Lift the engine up with the floor jack, remove the wood blocks then lower the engine back into position over the engine mounts.
13. Secure the engine to the engine mounts, using a socket wrench to tighten the nuts then reattach the carburetor linkage.
14. Secure the air filter canister back into place and reattach the exhaust pipe to the engine.
15. Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and remove the stands, lowering the car back onto the ground.
16. Locate the oil cap on the top of the intake manifold and take the cap off.
17. Fill the engine with five quarts of oil then place the cap back on the intake manifold.

1. Park the car on level ground. Engage the parking brake and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Open the trunk and remove the corner side panel trim from the rear of the vehicle. Disconnect the wiring modules from the tail lights. Remove the assemblies from the vehicle to access the rear bumper mounting screws.
3. Remove the two screws mounting the bumper cover on each side. Disconnect the electrical module for the backup sensors (if equipped) located on the drivers side, below the tail light assembly cavity.
4. Remove the lower mounts below the rear bumper. Detach the clips from each side of the bumper.
5. Support the bumper on one side and have an assistant support the other side. Pop the bumper cover off. Be careful not to damage the clips.

1. Open your Z4 owners manual, typically located in your cars glove box.
2. Locate the white laminated card in the manual.
3. Read the card for the passkey. The passkey will begin with the letters PK.

1. Open the hood. Detach the negative battery terminal with a wrench.
2. Locate the cowl trim around the edges of the instrument cluster. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that secure the cowl. Lift the cowl away from the instrument cluster.
3. Remove the three mounting screws attached to the cluster. Unhook the electrical connectors from the back of the cluster. Slide the cluster out of the dash and place it on a flat work surface.
4. Unscrew the broken bulbs in a counterclockwise direction. Discard the broken bulbs. Install the new bulbs by turning them in the opposite direction.
5. To reinstall the cluster or install a new one, simply follow the removal steps in reverse. Reattach the negative battery cable and turn on the engine to test the indicator bulbs in the instrument cluster.

Factory amp interface
1. Locate the amplifier signal wires. In European vehicles, these wires are often labeled on the factory radio itself. For most domestic vehicles, these wires are the same wires that feed the speakers on models that are not equipped with a factory amplifier. In addition to signal wires, you must locate the amp turn-on wire. This is the wire that tells the amp to turn on when the stereo is on.
2. Cut the ends off a set of RCA cables. Plug the RCA cables into the RCA pre-outs on the back of the stereo to be installed. Strip back about 1 inch of insulation from each cable and separate the center conductor from the ground shield.
3. Connect the RCA plugged into the front left RCA output to the front left signal wires to the amplifier. Connect the center conductor to the positive wire, and the shield conductor to the negative wire. Repeat this for the front right, rear left, and rear right signal wires.
4. Solder all connections, and seal with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Connect the remote turn-on wire from the CD player to the turn-on wire for the amplifier. Usually, the CD players remote turn-on wire is blue with a white stripe.
5. Turn on the CD player and listen. If connected properly, you will hear music playing through all four speakers and subwoofer (if equipped). Start the car and turn the volume all the way down to check for noise. With the volume set to zero, no sound should be heard. If a high-pitched whine is heard, and the frequency increases when you press the gas, check for a proper ground connection on the CD player and the signal wires.

Draining the System
1. Park the vehicle and allow it to cool or wait long enough so that you can place your hand on the radiator for 10 seconds without discomfort. Remove the cap from the coolant overflow tank, then loosen the vent plug on the tank.
2. Unbolt the underbody paneling under the radiator to access the drain plug on the radiator and engine. Place a catch pan under the radiator, then turn the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator counterclockwise. Be ready for a rush of possibly warm fluid, and dont get any in your eyes. Wait for the coolant flow to stop, then pour the contents of the catch pan into a five-gallon bucket with a lid.
3. Repeat this procedure with the drain plug on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank; it should be readily visible and accessible from under the car. Finally, locate the coolant drain plug on the engine block. Youll find it just under the exhaust manifolds, near the center of the engine. Drain the coolant and dump it into the bucket. Reinstall all the drain plugs, and tighten each to 8 to 10 foot-pounds.
Refilling the System
4. Prepare a 50/50 mix of purified drinking water and BMW coolant Part No. 82 14 1 467 704, or just buy pre-mixed antifreeze approved for use in this application. Set the heater controls to maximum and set the heater fan to the lowest speed; this will engage the auxiliary heater pump, and flush the heater core of any remaining fluid.
5. Start the engine, and begin slowly adding water/coolant mixture to the coolant overflow tank. Make sure the vent valves remain open, or youll end up with air trapped in the system. Continue slowly filling the system with coolant until the coolant backs up into the overflow tank and stays at the "Cold Fill" line.
6. Close the coolant vent plugs, check for leaks and replace the cap on the overflow tank. Check the coolant level after driving about 50 miles; there may have been a bit of air trapped in the system, and it will gradually "burp" out as the system pressurizes. Add coolant as necessary to reach the "Cold Fill" line on the overflow tank.

1. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the BMW. Remove the splash guard under the engine. This is held on with screws and plastic plugs that are removed by hand. Turn on the ignition, set the heater to 91 degrees and set the fan to the low speed. This will get the coolant out of the heater core.
2. Locate the radiator fill cap in the engine bay and loosen the bleeder screw with a screwdriver. Make sure you let the car cool down enough if it has been driven recently.
3. Locate and remove the two blue radiator screws located directly beneath where the radiator fill cap is located. Place a container under the drain plugs and drain them one at a time. Reinstall the radiator drain screws. Remove the 13-millimeter engine block drain plug, located on the passenger’s side of the engine block near the front axle, and drain the coolant into the container. Place a new washer on the drain bolt and put it back in the block, tightening it to 18 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
4. Remove the intake ducting by carefully prying up the three plastic rivets that hold it to the top of the radiator. Remove the neck of the air box by pressing the two vertical sides of the ducting together and pulling it off.
5. Remove the wires that go to the radiator fan and the T25 Torx screw that holds the fan on. Remove the plastic rivet on the driver’s side with a screwdriver. Remove the fan by pulling it straight up and out.
6. Remove the wire that goes to the thermostat. Use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the upper right part of the thermostat. Use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts on the top and bottom of the thermostat.
7. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine block. Remove the thermostat. Clean the surface where the thermostat gasket is installed so there is no gasket material remaining.
8. Install the new thermostat with the 13-millimeter bolt and the three 10-millimeter bolts. Use a new gasket when you reinstall the thermostat. Tighten the bolts to 7 lb/ft. Reinstall the radiator hoses. Reinstall the fan and the intake ducting. Top up the system with coolant.