Cars Specification

1.
After jacking up the car and removing the wheels, start by unscrewing the top nut.
2.
For next step you will need 5/8 wrench.
3.
Unscrew and remove bolt
4.
Bolt removed
5.
Apply penetrating oil to the nut at the far end of the tie rod.
6.
Loosen the nut.
7.
Tap the body of the tie rod down to push the tie rod out of the joint.
8.
Compare the new tie rod with the old.
9.
Now unscrew the tie rod by turning it counter clockwise with your hands. You can possibly avoid an alignment by counting the number of turns it takes to loosen and applying it to the new tie rod installation.
10.
The old and the new.
11.
10mm allen head will be used for the next step.
12.
Using the allen head, adjust the tie rod to align with the entry hole.
13.
After tapping the tie rod into the hole, you will need to use the allen wrench to turn the tie rod joint so that cut piece of the tie rod aligns with the hole(details in next step)
14.
Closer look at the cut that needs to be aligned with the hole where the bolt in previous step enters.
15.
Screw in the top bolt. My tie rods came with a brand new ones.
16. All done. Your car may need an alignment depending on how accurately you were able to replace the old tie rod.

1. Park the car on a flat, level surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and lower it securely onto a pair of jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and the wheels.
2. Remove the nut on the ball joint at the end of the tie rod nearest the hub. Press the ball joint out of the suspension with a pickle fork (a large metal fork) or with a tie rod puller by placing the tool between the ball joint and the suspension and prying the ball joint down.
3. Remove the metal ring on the dust cover that protects the inner end of the tie rod, using pliers. Bend back the tab on the locking plate that prevents the tie rod nut from turning and loosening. Loosen the nut on the end of the tie rod with an open-ended wrench. As you turn the nut, the entire tie rod will turn and loosen. Continue turning it until it is unthreaded from the BMW.
4. Install a new locking plate in place of the old plate. Check that the indent on the back of the plate locks securely into the sheetmetal. Thread the new tie rod into the car. You may need to hold the locking plate with your other hand to keep it in place while you install the new tie rod. Securely tighten the tie rod by the nut on the end of it with an open ended wrench. Bend down the tab on the locking plate so that it seats against one of the flat sides of the tie rod nut.
5. Slide the rubber dust boot back over the new tie rod. With a pair or pliers, clamp the metal retaining ring firmly around the dust boot to secure it in place. Thread the two locking nuts on the end of the inner tie rod, ensuring that the larger one is installed first. Install the outer tie rod by threading it onto the inner tie rod.
6. Adjust the length of the tie rod by turning the outer tie rod in or out until it is approximately the same length as the old one, then tighten the lock nuts.
7. Thread the new ball joint on the end of the tie rod. Insert the end of the ball joint into the suspension. Install a new locking nut on the ball joint and tighten it to 33 pound-feet with a torque wrench.
8. Repeat the above steps for the other side of the car. Reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Now you are ready to get the suspension aligned immediately.