Cars Specification

1.
After jacking up the car and removing the wheels, start by unscrewing the top nut.
2.
For next step you will need 5/8 wrench.
3.
Unscrew and remove bolt
4.
Bolt removed
5.
Apply penetrating oil to the nut at the far end of the tie rod.
6.
Loosen the nut.
7.
Tap the body of the tie rod down to push the tie rod out of the joint.
8.
Compare the new tie rod with the old.
9.
Now unscrew the tie rod by turning it counter clockwise with your hands. You can possibly avoid an alignment by counting the number of turns it takes to loosen and applying it to the new tie rod installation.
10.
The old and the new.
11.
10mm allen head will be used for the next step.
12.
Using the allen head, adjust the tie rod to align with the entry hole.
13.
After tapping the tie rod into the hole, you will need to use the allen wrench to turn the tie rod joint so that cut piece of the tie rod aligns with the hole(details in next step)
14.
Closer look at the cut that needs to be aligned with the hole where the bolt in previous step enters.
15.
Screw in the top bolt. My tie rods came with a brand new ones.
16. All done. Your car may need an alignment depending on how accurately you were able to replace the old tie rod.

1. Purchase the appropriate replacement dipstick for your vehicle. You can acquire a factory replacement at your nearest dealer, or an aftermarket equivalent at any auto parts store.
2. Turn your engine off and open the hood. Put on your gloves, then remove the old dipstick from your engine. If the handle is broken, use a pair of pliers to carefully pull it out.
3. Insert the new dipstick into the dipstick funnel. Close the hood.

1. Remove the caliper mounting bolts from the mounting bracket with an Allen driver and ratchet. Pull the caliper free of the mounting bracket and fork/swing arm.
2. Remove the pad retaining bolt(s) with an Allen driver and ratchet. Slip the old pads out of the caliper. Remove the old caliper clips and discard them.
3. Install the new caliper clips into the caliper. Place the new pads into position in the caliper and install the pad retaining bolt(s). Torque the retaining bolt(s) to factory specifications with the torque wrench.
4. Slip the caliper back onto the rotor and to the mounting bracket. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque them to factory specifications with the torque wrench.

1. Raise your BMW with the floor jack and place it on jack stands. You can either raise one side of it or raise it at all four corners. Either way, make sure it is raised high enough to allow you to comfortably reach the driveshaft. Also, make sure that the car is safely supported since you will be working underneath. You can slide a couple of wheels and tires under as well for added safety.
2. Spray penetrating oil on all the bolts that are going to be removed and let the oil soak in (the longer the better). Disconnect any sensors that go from the gearbox to the driveshaft. Not all models will have sensors, but some newer models like the 750 have sensors that must be disconnected. Note where the sensors go for later reinstallation.
3. Unbolt the exhaust hangers from the exhaust brackets. Disconnect the manifold bolts so that the exhaust can be dropped out of the way. (Depending on the model, you may be able to just loosen the manifold bolts a little to allow the exhaust to drop down enough.) Support the exhaust system with something (jack stands, block of wood, etc.) if you are not removing it entirely.
4. Remove the heat shield located between the exhaust system and the underside of the car (attached with a variety of bolts, depending on the model). Set the shield aside.
5. Remove the transmission crossmember, if needed, in order to access the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission. Support the transmission with something during this procedure.
6. Remove the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission and the bolts that hold it to the differential. Remove the bolts that hold the center support bearing in place. Pull the driveshaft out from under the car.
7. Mark the two halves of the driveshaft where they meet so that when they are put back together they are properly oriented.
8. Loosen the large nut behind the U-joint near the center bearing a little, pull the driveshaft apart, then loosen the nut again, repeating until the driveshaft is separated.
9. Pull the center support bearing off with a gear puller. Note the orientation of the bearing so that the new one is properly installed.
10. Install the new bearing by tapping it onto the driveshaft with a socket or similar tool that can fit over the splined part of the driveshaft. Tap the bearing on until the edge of the input shaft is just visible.
11. Reinstall the front shaft section, ensuring that the markings are properly lined up. Reinstall the driveshaft at both ends of the car in the reverse of removal. When you reinstall the driveshaft, preload the center bearing 4 to 6 mm toward the front of the car. Center the driveshaft in the transmission tunnel and tighten the bolts for the center bearing.
12. Reinstall the transmission crossmember if it was removed. Reinstall the exhaust system. Lower the car to the ground.

1. Park the Audi on level ground.
2. Lift the front portion of the Audi using a jack and rest it on axle stands.
3. Remove the two screws from the wheel wells and the six screws from the Audis underpan by turning a screwdriver counterclockwise.
4. Take off the two lower grilles and the bolts found near the Audis fog lights by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise.
5. Grab and remove the Audis headlight washer hose, found by the drivers side lower grille. Put a bucket under the Audis front bumper to collect any fluid that will drain out.
6. Jerk the front bumper from the Audi in an upward, then downward motion to remove it. Grab and take off the horn and headlight wiring and turn signal bulbs on either side of the Audis front end.
7. Remove all three drivers side headlight screws and the four passengers side headlight screws found under the headlights by turning a T45 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
8. Take off the two screws found above the headlights and the two screws found at the sides of the headlights by turning a T30 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
9. Grab and take off the lock carrier from the Audis fan, as well as the wiring and timing belt cover, then unscrew all four bolts from the fan by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise. Slide the fan away from the Audi.
10. Loosen the two A/C compressor bolts to take off the A/C compressor belt and jerk the spring-loaded tensioner found by the fan using a crescent wrench to reveal and remove the Audis serpentine belt.
11. Take off the damper pulley from below the Audis fan by unscrewing its four bolts counterclockwise using a metric wrench. Hold the damper pulley with a breaker bar. Remove the lower timing belt cover by unscrewing its three bolts.
12. Turn the damper pulley crank clockwise to line up the cam sprocket and valve cover with their marked sides. Then unscrew the three bolts that hold in the tensioner and the bolt that holds in the guide pulley. Install a new tensioner to the guide pulley. A tensioner and a new timing belt can be purchased with a timing belt kit from most auto parts shops.
13. Unscrew the guide pulleys bolt from its brass-colored portion, take off the timing belt, then place a new timing belt at the Audis sprockets. Assemble the guide pulley with an Allen wrench, then take out the new tensioners pin using your fingers.
14. Install all of the Audis components back in their places by performing these steps in reverse. Remove the axle stands from the Audi to lower the vehicle.

1. Remove brake fluid from the brake master cylinder with a turkey baster until it is only half full. Transfer the removed fluid to a small container.
2. Loosen the X5s front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket.
3. Raise the front of the BMW with a floor jack and place jack stands beneath the frame rails. Lower the X5 until only the jack stands support its weight. Remove the lug nuts and pull the front wheels from the SUV.
4. Unplug the wiring harness that pluggs into the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Insert the blade of a flat-head screwdriver under the retaining spring holding the outer brake pad to the caliper and pry it away from the pad and caliper. Inspect the retaining spring for visible wear or bending. Discard and replace the retaining spring if bending or wear exist.
6. Pull the plastic plugs off the rear of the brake caliper, exposing the caliper bolts. Remove the caliper bolts with a ratchet and a hex-bit socket. Pull the caliper off the rotor and hang it from a nearby suspension component, using a bungee strap.
7. Pull the outer brake pad from the caliper. Insert the blade of a flat-head screwdriver under the inner brake pad and pry up until you can grab it. Pull the inner brake pad from the caliper -- notice that a metal clip goes into the caliper piston to hold the pad in place.
8. Remove the rotor by removing the screw in the center of the rotor with a ratchet and hex-bit socket and pulling the rotor off the X5.
9. Measure the thickness of the rotors disc in four places with a micrometer. Compare the thickness of the rotor with the minimum thickness specification of 1.35 inches on a 13.1-by-1.4-inch rotor and 1.1 inches on a 13.1-by-1.2-inch rotor.
10. Discard the rotor and replace it with a new one if it is thinner than the minimum thickness or has any visual defects (grooves, hot spots or mirror-like shine), as you cannot machine the X5s rotors. Leave the rotor as is if it is thicker than the minimum thickness and no visual defects exist.
11. Place the new or original rotor back on the X5 and tighten the center screw to 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and a hex-bit socket.
12. Place BMW tool No. 34-1-050 (front caliper piston adjustment tool) so that the paddles are inside the caliper, positioned just like brake pads. Tighten the hand crank on the end of the tool until the internal caliper piston presses fully into the caliper.
13. Apply a thin coat of disc brake grease to the rear of the brake pads and the mating surfaces on the caliper and caliper bracket.
14. Place the inner brake pad so that the clip on the rear of the pad lines up with the hole in the brake caliper. Press the inner brake pad until it fully seats inside the caliper piston. Insert the outer brake pad on the caliper. The brake pads have either an L or an R stamped on them. Make certain to mount pads with the R stamped on them on the passengers side of the X5 and the L pads on the drivers side.
15. Set the brake caliper back on the rotor and tighten the caliper bolts to 81 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and a hex-bit socket.
16. Install the new or old outer brake pad retainer and press the tabs of the retainer into the holes on the brake caliper.
17. Plug the wiring harness back into the rear of the brake caliper.
18. Reinstall the X5s front wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the SUV from the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the BMW. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
19. Tighten the front wheels to 90 foot-pounds in a crisscross pattern, using a torque wrench and a socket.
20. Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder and add DOT 4 brake fluid until the level reaches Max on the master cylinder.
21. Insert the key in the X5s ignition and turn it to the 1 position. Leave the key in this position for at least 30 seconds to clear the brake pad lining light. Turn the ignition off and remove the key.
22. Take the old brake fluid to a used automotive fluid recycling center for proper disposal. Many auto parts stores perform this task free of charge.

1. Drive the vehicle for ten minutes and then place it in park on a level area. Check the automatic transmission fluid prior to completing the oil change since its best to check and add transmission fluid at operating temperature.
2. Locate the reservoir and dipstick labeled ATF. It will be found opposite of the regular motor oil, on the driver side of the vehicle and is colored red.
3. Remove the dipstick from the reservoir and wipe it clean with a rag. Replace the dipstick completely and remove it once more. This will give you an accurate reading of the transmission fluid. If the measurement reads full do not add any fluid at this time as over filling can cause damage to the transmission. If the measurement reads between the full and add lines or below the add lines, then add fluid.
4. Place a funnel into the reservoir neck where the dipstick normally sits. Pour a small amount of transmission fluid into the reservoir and allow it to funnel down completely. Check the transmission fluid levels again by removing the funnel and replacing the dipstick completely.
5. Remove the dipstick and read the measurement. Add more fluid, if needed. Continue this process until the measurement reads full. Once finished, proceed to the oil change, as the components and oil will now be cool enough to complete the oil change.

Change Oil in a BMW
1. Drive your BMW onto the car ramps in order to give yourself plenty of room under the car. Put the vehicle transmission in park and place a 4 inch by 4 inch wood block behind one of the rear tires to keep the vehicle from rolling backward.
2. Pull the oil dipstick out of the tube and lay it aside so the oil can drain freely from the bottom. Place a drain pan underneath the engine, directly below the oil filter.
3. Turn the nut on the top of the oil filter cap underneath the motor counterclockwise, using the crescent wrench. Be careful of oil draining from the filter when you loosen the cap.
4. Place the oil filter cap aside and pull the filter from the housing. Locate the drain plug on the back side of the oil pan under the engine and place the drain pan underneath the plug once the oil filter housing has been drained.
5. Unfasten the oil drain plug with an open end wrench and remove the plug, allowing the oil to drain out of the engine completely. Once all the oil has been drained, screw the drain plug back into the oil pan and tighten it with the open end wrench.
6. Place the new oil filter inside the filter housing and screw the cap back on using the crescent wrench to tighten the cap. Slide the dipstick back into the tube and verify that it is secure.
7. Detach the oil cap from the top of the intake manifold and place a funnel in the opening. Add between 4 and 7 quarts of oil to your BMW depending on the size of the engine.
8. Take the funnel out of the top of the intake manifold and secure the oil cap to the top of the manifold. Remove the wood block from the back tire of the BMW and the car off the car ramps.
9. Turn the engine off and dispose of the drained oil at your local recycling center or automotive supply store.

1. Loosen the lug nuts that hold the BMWs wheels on with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and lower it onto jack stands at all four corners. Finish removing the lug nuts and the wheels and set them out of the way.
2. Spray brake cleaner on the brakes at all four corners of the vehicle and wipe everything down with a clean, dry rag.
3. On the front drivers side, remove the pad-wear cable from the retaining clip. Remove the plastic covers on the caliper guide bolts, located on the side facing the wheel well on the top and bottom of the caliper.
4. Loosen the upper and lower guide bolts with a 7 mm Allen wrench. Push the bolts out with a thin screwdriver and set them aside. Pry out the anti-rattle clip on the caliper with a screwdriver.
5. Slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with a piece of wire tied to the suspension or with a platform so there is no weight on the brake line. Disconnect the wear sensor wire from the inner brake pad. Remove the brake pads.
6. Compress the caliper piston to make room for the new, thicker brake pads. Remove the lid on the brake fluid reservoir. Remove some of the brake fluid with a syringe so the fluid does not spill out of the reservoir. Use a wooden handle leveraged against the piston to push it into the caliper. You can also use an adjustable wrench or a C-clamp to press the piston in.
7. Install the new brake pads in the same orientation that the old pads were removed. The inner pad is installed by pressing the metal clip into the caliper piston. The outer pad slides into the slot in the caliper carrier. Reconnect the pad wear sensor.
8. Slide the caliper over the rotor and install the caliper retaining bolts, tightening them firmly. Reinstall the anti-rattle clip and the caps that go on the caliper bolts. Reattach the pad sensor cable to the clip. Move to the rear.
9. Release the parking brake. On the passenger side remove the brake pad wear sensor cable from the retaining clip. Remove the plastic covers on the caliper guide bolts, located on the side facing the wheel well, on the top and bottom of the caliper.
10. Loosen the upper and lower guide bolts with a 7 mm Allen wrench. Push the bolts out with a thin screwdriver and set them aside. Pry out the anti-rattle clip on the caliper with a screwdriver.
11. Slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with a piece of wire tied to the suspension or with a platform so there is no weight on the brake line. Disconnect the wear sensor wire from the inner brake pad. Remove the brake pads. Compress the caliper piston using the same method as you did on the front.
12. Install the new brake pads in the same orientation that the old pads were removed. The inner pad is installed by pressing the metal clip into the caliper piston. The outer pad slides into the slot in the caliper carrier. Reconnect the pad wear sensor.
13. Slide the caliper over the rotor and install the caliper retaining bolts, tightening them firmly. Reinstall the anti-rattle clip and the caps that go on the caliper bolts. Reattach the pad sensor cable to the clip. Replace the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the brake fluid level. Top it off if necessary.

1. Drive the BMW for at least 10 miles to warm the transmission up to operating temperature. Park the car on a level surface and apply the parking brake. If you want to raise the car on jack stands, do so at all ends so the car remains level.
2. Loosen the drain plug for the transmission fluid pan; a half turn with the wrench will be enough. Place a draining container under the pan and remove the plug, Measure the amount of fluid that drains from the pan, then replace the plug with a new plug gasket.
3. Disconnect the transmission fluid pan by removing its mounting fasteners. Discard its gasket, and clean the mating surfaces and the inside of the pan; brake cleaner will work.
4. Remove the transmission fluid filter; disconnect its mounting fasteners if equipped. Install a new filter with new seals.
5. Install the fluid pan back on the transmission, using a new gasket.
6. Fill the transmission with the fluid specified for your model BMW; the cars manual should state the type needed. Remove the filler/level plug, which is on the transmission above the pan, to fill it with the fluid. Fill it to the amount you measured earlier from the drained fluid.
7. Check the fluid level; the fluid needs to be just seeping over the edge of the hole. Replace the filler plug, start the engine and let it run idle for a few minutes. Check the fluid level again, as it will have heated and expanded.