Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts

Saturday, May 4, 2013

How to DIY Troubleshoot a Mercedes


1. Inspect the paintwork for damage. Scratches, dents and corrosion can all be indicative of greater damage elsewhere. Any scratch on the paint can be expensive, because Mercedes often used limited run paints (restricted to certain cars and years of manufacture). Paint needs to be repaired soon, as it can lead to early rust. Any dents in the body panel could mean that the Mercedes was in an accident and could have frame damage underneath. If there is corrosion in the panel then it is guaranteed that there is rust elsewhere, especially on the undercarriage.
2. Open the hood and inspect the engine. There should be no debris in the engine bay or radiator. If your Mercedes is a carbureted model, then inspect the barrel intakes for damage to the valves. Damaged carburetor valves can lead to irregular air-fuel mixes that can damage your piston or sleeves. If your engine is fuel injected, then inspect the fuel lines for leaks (pay special attention to the rubber hoses, as they have a tendency to become brittle with age). Inspect the power lines on the hybrid model for any damage (do not touch damaged ones). Call a Mercedes dealership to repair a hybrid model.
3. Turn the car on and listen to it idle. The hybrid Mercedes should not run the engine while the car is sitting still, only when under power. Non-hybrids should idle around 2000 rpm (if it idles higher than this, there may be a problem with the fuel-air mix). Watch the engine temperature. Even on a hot day, the engine should remain cool in idle.
4. Drive the Mercedes forward and listen for the engine. AMG models should roar when the throttle is pushed in, even at sedate speeds. Non-AMG models should be whisper quiet, even at highway speeds (if you hear the engine, then some of the noise isolation material has fallen off). Mercedes prides itself on providing quiet interiors on their regular cars. The car should easily absorb any bumps in the road. If the car rocks a lot then the shocks may be shot.
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Thursday, May 2, 2013

DIY BMW Tie Rod Replacement


1. Park the car on a flat, level surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and lower it securely onto a pair of jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and the wheels.
2. Remove the nut on the ball joint at the end of the tie rod nearest the hub. Press the ball joint out of the suspension with a pickle fork (a large metal fork) or with a tie rod puller by placing the tool between the ball joint and the suspension and prying the ball joint down.
3. Remove the metal ring on the dust cover that protects the inner end of the tie rod, using pliers. Bend back the tab on the locking plate that prevents the tie rod nut from turning and loosening. Loosen the nut on the end of the tie rod with an open-ended wrench. As you turn the nut, the entire tie rod will turn and loosen. Continue turning it until it is unthreaded from the BMW.
4. Install a new locking plate in place of the old plate. Check that the indent on the back of the plate locks securely into the sheetmetal. Thread the new tie rod into the car. You may need to hold the locking plate with your other hand to keep it in place while you install the new tie rod. Securely tighten the tie rod by the nut on the end of it with an open ended wrench. Bend down the tab on the locking plate so that it seats against one of the flat sides of the tie rod nut.
5. Slide the rubber dust boot back over the new tie rod. With a pair or pliers, clamp the metal retaining ring firmly around the dust boot to secure it in place. Thread the two locking nuts on the end of the inner tie rod, ensuring that the larger one is installed first. Install the outer tie rod by threading it onto the inner tie rod.
6. Adjust the length of the tie rod by turning the outer tie rod in or out until it is approximately the same length as the old one, then tighten the lock nuts.
7. Thread the new ball joint on the end of the tie rod. Insert the end of the ball joint into the suspension. Install a new locking nut on the ball joint and tighten it to 33 pound-feet with a torque wrench.
8. Repeat the above steps for the other side of the car. Reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Now you are ready to get the suspension aligned immediately.
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