Cars Specification

                        

Six months and a few hundred thousand pageviews later, the authorities have sentenced the woman seen in the video above parking her car on....well, two other cars.

Tripta Kaushal was arrested on the evidence of that video back in October. But the wheels of justice turn more deliberately than those of her SUV, so its only this week that the judge brought the hammer down.

A $500 fine for leaving the scene and failing to report the accident, restitution to the owners of the two cars she damaged, six months probation and shes not allowed to drive between 7PM and 7AM.

Do we really think low light was the issue here?

And yes, shes driving a BMW X5. Now, just imagine what the media would have said about the video if it had been a Toyota.

1. Open the hood of your Mercedes and locate the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, mostly found between the air cleaner box and the air intake pipe of more modernized engines.
2. Unfasten all of the clamps that hold the air filter box to the intake hose and disconnect completely. Remove the air filter inside and thoroughly clean this area of any dirt that may have built-up over the extensive use of your Mercedes. This step is not imperative to removing and replacing the MAF sensor, but it will certainly help improve the functionality of the new sensor once installed. Replace the air filter if necessary, but leave the air box disconnected at this time.
3. Use the necessary socket to remove the bolt that holds the clamp of the air intake pipe. Remove this piece to free the intake pipe.
4. Pinch both sides of the MAF sensor and wiggle free until you have completely removed this part from the engine. Be patient, as this may take a few moments of your time to loosen.
5. Compare the old MAF sensor that you just removed with its replacement counterpart. Make sure both sensors match identically and replace the new MAF sensor exactly as the new one was removed. It should slide on very easily, with little wiggling to set into place.
6. Reconnect all of the parts that were removed to access the MAF sensor and clean the air filter box. Make sure all bolts are tightened properly to hold the intended clamps together, ensuring that the air intake tube and air filter box both are set exactly as they were before removal and installation of the MAF sensor.

1. Remove the spark plugs with a socket wrench, and disconnect the valve covers.
2. Clamp the timing chain to the camshaft gear. Plug the opening in the cover for the timing chain with shop rags. Attach a chain-breaker to the master link on the timing chain. Separate the master link by using the chain-breaker. Release the clamp from the camshaft gear, and remove the shop rags from the hole in the timing chain cover.
3. Attach the master link on the new timing chain to the master link on the old timing chain. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench as you pull the old timing chain through the camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the old timing chain, and stop turning when the master link on the old chain is in the 12 oclock position on the camshaft sprocket.
4. Disconnect the master link on the old timing chain from the master link on the new timing chain, and remove the old timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Connect the free end of the master link on the new timing chain with the other free end of the timing chain. Make this connection from the rear of the camshaft sprocket, so that you can see the lock washers on the timing chain.
5. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the crankcase. This will close the master link on the new timing chain. Turn the crankshaft at least one full turn clockwise to ensure the new timing chain is properly seated.

1. Lift the front of the Mercedes 190e with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front axle on both sides of the car, then lower the vehicle to rest on the jack stands.
2. Locate where the exhaust pipe attaches to the engine and detach the pipe from the motor, using a socket wrench to unfasten the bolts.
3. Remove the air filter canister by undoing the bolt on the top with a socket wrench and taking the canister off the top of the engine.
4. Disconnect the linkage to the carburetor with a pair of pliers and move the linkage out of the way.
5. Unfasten the motor mounts of the engine, using a socket wrench to remove the bolts, then lift the engine up with a floor jack about 4 inches.
6. Place two wood blocks between the engine and the vehicle frame to hold the engine in place then lower the floor jack away from the engine.
7. Locate the oil pan drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan and place a drip pan underneath the drain plug.
8. Loosen the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the oil to drain into the pan until it is completely empty.
9. Move the drain pan out of the way and unfasten the bolts on the oil pan with a socket wrench.
10. Pry the oil pan from the engine block with a screwdriver, moving the oil pan out from under the engine then use a putty knife to scrape off any excess gasket material from under the engine.
11. Place the new oil pan gasket on the lip of the new oil pan and slide the pan into position, attaching it with bolts to the bottom of the engine.
12. Lift the engine up with the floor jack, remove the wood blocks then lower the engine back into position over the engine mounts.
13. Secure the engine to the engine mounts, using a socket wrench to tighten the nuts then reattach the carburetor linkage.
14. Secure the air filter canister back into place and reattach the exhaust pipe to the engine.
15. Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and remove the stands, lowering the car back onto the ground.
16. Locate the oil cap on the top of the intake manifold and take the cap off.
17. Fill the engine with five quarts of oil then place the cap back on the intake manifold.

1. Open your Z4 owners manual, typically located in your cars glove box.
2. Locate the white laminated card in the manual.
3. Read the card for the passkey. The passkey will begin with the letters PK.

Draining the System
1. Park the vehicle and allow it to cool or wait long enough so that you can place your hand on the radiator for 10 seconds without discomfort. Remove the cap from the coolant overflow tank, then loosen the vent plug on the tank.
2. Unbolt the underbody paneling under the radiator to access the drain plug on the radiator and engine. Place a catch pan under the radiator, then turn the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator counterclockwise. Be ready for a rush of possibly warm fluid, and dont get any in your eyes. Wait for the coolant flow to stop, then pour the contents of the catch pan into a five-gallon bucket with a lid.
3. Repeat this procedure with the drain plug on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank; it should be readily visible and accessible from under the car. Finally, locate the coolant drain plug on the engine block. Youll find it just under the exhaust manifolds, near the center of the engine. Drain the coolant and dump it into the bucket. Reinstall all the drain plugs, and tighten each to 8 to 10 foot-pounds.
Refilling the System
4. Prepare a 50/50 mix of purified drinking water and BMW coolant Part No. 82 14 1 467 704, or just buy pre-mixed antifreeze approved for use in this application. Set the heater controls to maximum and set the heater fan to the lowest speed; this will engage the auxiliary heater pump, and flush the heater core of any remaining fluid.
5. Start the engine, and begin slowly adding water/coolant mixture to the coolant overflow tank. Make sure the vent valves remain open, or youll end up with air trapped in the system. Continue slowly filling the system with coolant until the coolant backs up into the overflow tank and stays at the "Cold Fill" line.
6. Close the coolant vent plugs, check for leaks and replace the cap on the overflow tank. Check the coolant level after driving about 50 miles; there may have been a bit of air trapped in the system, and it will gradually "burp" out as the system pressurizes. Add coolant as necessary to reach the "Cold Fill" line on the overflow tank.

1. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the BMW. Remove the splash guard under the engine. This is held on with screws and plastic plugs that are removed by hand. Turn on the ignition, set the heater to 91 degrees and set the fan to the low speed. This will get the coolant out of the heater core.
2. Locate the radiator fill cap in the engine bay and loosen the bleeder screw with a screwdriver. Make sure you let the car cool down enough if it has been driven recently.
3. Locate and remove the two blue radiator screws located directly beneath where the radiator fill cap is located. Place a container under the drain plugs and drain them one at a time. Reinstall the radiator drain screws. Remove the 13-millimeter engine block drain plug, located on the passenger’s side of the engine block near the front axle, and drain the coolant into the container. Place a new washer on the drain bolt and put it back in the block, tightening it to 18 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
4. Remove the intake ducting by carefully prying up the three plastic rivets that hold it to the top of the radiator. Remove the neck of the air box by pressing the two vertical sides of the ducting together and pulling it off.
5. Remove the wires that go to the radiator fan and the T25 Torx screw that holds the fan on. Remove the plastic rivet on the driver’s side with a screwdriver. Remove the fan by pulling it straight up and out.
6. Remove the wire that goes to the thermostat. Use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the upper right part of the thermostat. Use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts on the top and bottom of the thermostat.
7. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine block. Remove the thermostat. Clean the surface where the thermostat gasket is installed so there is no gasket material remaining.
8. Install the new thermostat with the 13-millimeter bolt and the three 10-millimeter bolts. Use a new gasket when you reinstall the thermostat. Tighten the bolts to 7 lb/ft. Reinstall the radiator hoses. Reinstall the fan and the intake ducting. Top up the system with coolant.

Gemballa, that two years ago made a go, let again making themselves heard. Porsches remodeling is always Gemballa things been there the new owner is also happily go through with it.

The newest addition to the product range of the Gemballa Gemballa GT package for the Porsche 991. The impact? It defies the looks of course, though it asserts that the Gemballa aerodynamic sports package also the driving performance of the 991 significantly improves. The remmerij Brembo plus stiffer while 30 mm lower sports springs do that probably.

A sports exhaust system with six tailpipes, a reference to the famous Avalanche from the 80s, should provide additional experience especially during acceleration. Faster than the factory-instances is 911 with Gemballa GT package otherwise not. The six-cylinder boxer is left untouched.

price
Like the visual Gemballa GT package what? Then € 19.860, - to the bank account of the tuner. A nice sum, but all the body panels are also made of carbon fiber. Moreover, the painting and installation at the asking price included.

Fiat unveiled its latest Fiat 500e electric car for 2013. The 2013 Fiat 500e is rated at 122 MPGe in city driving and 108 MPGe on the highway. The highway driving figure is best among EVs.

The Fiat 500e features an all-new, battery-electric powertrain with 111 hp and recharges in less than four hours with a Level 2 (240 volt) on-board charging module. The Fiat 500e will go on sale in California starting in the second quarter of this year.

Like the Spark EV, the 500e has more power than its gasoline-powered sibling, although in the case of the Fiat, the difference is only 10 hp, compared to the 50-hp difference between the gas-powered Spark and the Spark EV.

The 2013 500e, which is the electric version of the 500, is powered by a 111 horsepower electric motor. It recharges in less than 4 hours with a 240-volt outlet. The exterior of the 500e remains almost identical to the gas powered 500 models, but gets distinctive styling cues that also contribute to a 13 percent improvement in aerodynamics.




Press Release

2013 Fiat 500e Offers Unsurpassed 108 Highway MPGe Rating and Class-Leading 87 Miles of Driving Range

• Industry-best 108 MPGe highway rating
• Best-in-class EPA combined city/highway estimated driving range of 87 miles
• Unsurpassed frugality with EPA-estimated annual fuel-equivalent cost of $500
• EPA fuel consumption rate of just 29 kilowatt hours (kWh) per 100 miles
• Fiat 500e arrives at FIAT Studios in California in second-quarter 2013
• January 4, 2013 , Auburn Hills, Mich. - The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has rated the stylish Fiat 500es highway-cycle performance at 108 MPGe, which is unsurpassed by any electric vehicle (EV) on the U.S. market.

MPGe is the EPA-devised measure for determining how many miles an EV can travel on a quantity of battery-generated electricity that has same energy content as a gallon of gasoline.

EPA testing also has indicated that, when fully charged, the Fiat 500e will travel about 87 miles, which is best-in-class and better than all U.S.-market EVs produced by high-volume manufacturers.

In addition, the EPA estimates the annual cost to power the Fiat 500e is, coincidentally, $500.

The estimate is calculated by factoring electricity price projections into 15,000 miles of travel at a vehicles combined city/highway performance rating. The Fiat 500e has a 116-MPGe city/highway rating; its city-cycle rating is 122 MPGe.

“The FIAT brand is about unique Italian style, fuel efficiency and great value. Now we have taken a page from our own playbook to change the expectations of what an electric vehicle can be,” said Tim Kuniskis, Head of FIAT Brand North America. “Our environmentally sexy Fiat 500e offers a design proposition like no other, while delivering unsurpassed MPGe and class-leading range making our 500e a serious contender in the market.”

EPA testing estimates the car’s energy-consumption rate at just 29 kilowatt hours (kWh) per 100 miles. Further, the Fiat 500e scores a perfect "10" on two EPA scales that reward vehicles for low tailpipe emissions.

The battery-electric Fiat 500e is, of course, a zero-emissions vehicle.

The 2013 500e builds on the Fiat brands successful small-car formula, while adding an all-new, battery-electric powertrain that produces 111 horsepower (83 kW). It recharges in less than 4 hours with its Level 2 (240 volt) on-board charging module (OBCM).

Supplementing its distinctive styling cues are eight efficiency-inspired exterior enhancements that contribute to a 13 percent improvement in aerodynamics, compared with the already fashionable Fiat 500 Lounge.

The Fiat 500e arrives at FIAT Studios in California in second-quarter 2013.

2014 Toyota Highlander. A power always adds a large interior and a new exterior design for improved aerodynamics.

The new 2014 Toyota Highlander will like its sophisticated look and feel inside and out. The designers created a stylish exterior but strong at the same time and excellent interior comfort improvement. A new front that includes a trapezoidal grille, sweeping headlamps, LED daytime running lights, front and rear fenders chiseled. 19 inch wheels alloy Chromtec complement a new line that will display a higher waist and elegant. All this thinking about creating an airfoil.

The interior of the 2014 Highlander has been optimized to provide a level of comfort that defies its exterior size. It has an excellent combination of contemporary style and utility that provides an atmosphere premium advanced functionality. Meticulous attention to common contact points, as the steering wheel and shift knob, by adding soft-touch materials.

A roll-top center console provides a comfortable armrest when it is open or closed, and a volume of 24.5 liters, which may also contain a large bag or purse, or a surplus of items.

The suspension of the 2014 Toyota Highlander includes a new double wishbone rear suspension on eliminating the old strut towers. This has been changed considering the additional load capacity and a new design of third-row seat with a maximum of three people.

The new rear suspension of the 2014 Highlander was associated with MacPherson front suspension, which provides better handling and a smoother ride. To provide a reduced roll rate and agile driving experience, optimized electronic steering, increased some weld for better stiffness and coil spring structure was improved.

2014 Highlander AWD adopts AWD pair Dynamic Control System. This feature helps provide impressive maneuverability around town, superior traction a more direct steering feel, and better fuel efficiency.

The third-generation 2014 Toyota Highlander offers customers powertrain options that best suit your needs. A 2.7-liter V6 engine four-cylinder or 3.5-liter. A new gearbox 6-speed automatic transmission helped to improve both the driving experience and fuel economy.

1. Remove the bolts that secure the seat base to the floor pan with a socket and ratchet. The bolts are between the center cut-out in the seat where the seat belt fasteners come out of the center of the seat. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet.
2. Grab the front of the seat and work your fingers between the floor pan and the bottom of the seat. Pull up to force the clamps out of the floor pan and pull the seat forward to separate it from the seat back.
3. Push the seat belt fasteners from between the two seat panels and remove the lower seat from the Mercedes.
4. Grab the bottom of the seat back where the seat was joined with the seat base. Pull out on the bottom of the seat to remove the clips from the trunk frame. Keep pulling until the entire seat is free from the trunk frame and remove the seat back from the Mercedes.

1. Turn on the car so the engine is running.
2. Locate the R or Reset button to the left of your instrument panel. Press the reset button twice. In the display screen in your instrument panel, you should see the amount of time left before your next oil change.
3. Turn off the car.
4. Hold the reset button down and simultaneously turn on the engine again. Hold the button down until the display screen beeps. You will see the FSS light reset.

With the Paris Motor Show, Suzuki promises the prospect of us already a world first.
We will again get a new member in the ever-expanding segment of the crossover. This time its Suzuki that with the new S-Cross a penny in the bag will do. During the Paris Motor Show next month it will be revealed.

C-segment
The Suzuki SX4 has actually been a crossover in the house, but with the Suzuki S-Cross walks the brand still a somewhat unknown way. The newcomer differs not only on the SX4 concept; it is also their first mid-sized crossover. And they must compete against the like’s heavy as the Kia Sportage, Mitsubishi ASX and Volkswagen Tiguan.

New family face
Suzuki also already hint with a sketch of how the S-Cross will look around there. The drawing shows put out a new nose that might be expected from this become the new family face of the brand. The design is especially trying to the lines as modern as possible, says Suzuki. Details about the S-Cross lacking hitherto, 27 September we know more.

1. Open the hood and disconnect both battery cables. Wait at least 10 minutes before you begin work inside the car. This allows residual electricity in the system, which can cause an accidental inflation of the airbag, to dissipate.
2. Open the glove box. Remove the airbag connector cover on the top-front of the glove compartment, and then disconnect the wiring harness.
3. Use a socket to remove the nut that connects the dash side lower finisher, which is the plastic piece on the side of the dashboard. Insert a small flat screwdriver into the seam between the dash top and the side finisher. To avoid scratches, place a soft cloth over the tip of the screwdriver. Gently pry the panel to release the two metal clips.
4. Remove the drivers side lower instrument panel. This is the panel below the steering wheel that attaches to the center console. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on each side. Insert a flat screwdriver into the seam at the top of the panel, and then gently pry it of. There are three metal clips you must release along the top, and two plastic tabs on the right side that pull straight out.
5. Remove the shifter finisher. This is the piece that fits around the gearshift. Pry off the two metal clips on each side of the shifter finisher with a flat screwdriver. When the piece is out of the console, disconnect the wiring harness from the rear of the cigarette lighter.
6. Remove the glove box. There are two Phillips screws along the bottom of the bracket, and one screw in the top-left corner of the bracket. There is also a single metal clip on the right side that you should be able to release as you remove the glove box assembly.
7. Remove both instrument stay covers. These are the plastic pieces on the bottom left and right sides of the center instrument cluster, close to the cigarette lighter and ashtray. There is a single screw on the side of the panel closest to the front of the vehicle, near the bottom. There is a single metal clip on the opposite side of the screw. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clip out, if necessary.
8. Remove the screws from the center console. There are two screws in the front, one on each side of the gearshift, one screw inside the console box (which you can access with the arm rest/console lid open) and one on each side of the console, near the rear. You can now lift the console off of the vehicles floor.

1. Park the C230 and turn off the engine. Remove the keys from the ignition.
2. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a socket wrench.
3. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry out the bezel from the center console.
4. Unplug the electrical connector from the bottom of the bezel.
5. Remove burned-out light bulbs from underneath the bezel and install the new bulbs by pushing them into their sockets.
6. Reattach the electrical connector, making sure it snaps into place.
7. Snap the bezel onto the center console, reconnect the negative battery cable and close the hood.

1. Park the car in a sunny spot. Try to park the car in an area where the internal temperature of the car reaches above 75 degrees. If you are working in the winter, you can use a small heat gun or hair dryer to warm the adhesive that holds the mirror in place. Allow the Mercedes to sit in the sun for at least two hours.
2. Locate the area where the mirror attaches to the button glued to the windshield. A small screw holds the mirror on this button. Unscrew the screw and set it aside.
3. Remove any electronic wires attached to the mirror by pulling the wires gently with pliers. These wires control the thermometer inside the mirror, the auto dim feature and sometimes a heating mechanism. Your mirror may have some or all of these features, depending on the features included on your Mercedes 450.
4. Turn the mirror gently clockwise to loosen it from the button on the windshield. Set the mirror down in a safe place where it will not get broken, scratched or sat on.
5. Grasp the sides of the button with a crescent wrench. Gently twist the button in a clockwise direction until the button pops off of the glass surface. If this does not work, insert a razor blade between the glass and the button and apply gentle pressure to pop the button off of the glass.
6. Place a small amount of adhesive remover onto any glue remaining on the surface of the glass. Allow the remover to sit for 10 minutes. Then wipe the residue away with a soft cloth. You can also use the razor blade to scrape away the adhesive.

1. Park the Audi on level ground.
2. Lift the front portion of the Audi using a jack and rest it on axle stands.
3. Remove the two screws from the wheel wells and the six screws from the Audis underpan by turning a screwdriver counterclockwise.
4. Take off the two lower grilles and the bolts found near the Audis fog lights by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise.
5. Grab and remove the Audis headlight washer hose, found by the drivers side lower grille. Put a bucket under the Audis front bumper to collect any fluid that will drain out.
6. Jerk the front bumper from the Audi in an upward, then downward motion to remove it. Grab and take off the horn and headlight wiring and turn signal bulbs on either side of the Audis front end.
7. Remove all three drivers side headlight screws and the four passengers side headlight screws found under the headlights by turning a T45 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
8. Take off the two screws found above the headlights and the two screws found at the sides of the headlights by turning a T30 Torx screwdriver counterclockwise.
9. Grab and take off the lock carrier from the Audis fan, as well as the wiring and timing belt cover, then unscrew all four bolts from the fan by turning an Allen wrench counterclockwise. Slide the fan away from the Audi.
10. Loosen the two A/C compressor bolts to take off the A/C compressor belt and jerk the spring-loaded tensioner found by the fan using a crescent wrench to reveal and remove the Audis serpentine belt.
11. Take off the damper pulley from below the Audis fan by unscrewing its four bolts counterclockwise using a metric wrench. Hold the damper pulley with a breaker bar. Remove the lower timing belt cover by unscrewing its three bolts.
12. Turn the damper pulley crank clockwise to line up the cam sprocket and valve cover with their marked sides. Then unscrew the three bolts that hold in the tensioner and the bolt that holds in the guide pulley. Install a new tensioner to the guide pulley. A tensioner and a new timing belt can be purchased with a timing belt kit from most auto parts shops.
13. Unscrew the guide pulleys bolt from its brass-colored portion, take off the timing belt, then place a new timing belt at the Audis sprockets. Assemble the guide pulley with an Allen wrench, then take out the new tensioners pin using your fingers.
14. Install all of the Audis components back in their places by performing these steps in reverse. Remove the axle stands from the Audi to lower the vehicle.